For all the peeps who've just bought a set of our Shock Drop's - here's a quick walkthrough of how to fit them correctly. I use an air powered high speed sander/grinder , but you could use an angle grinder with a flap wheel, a power file, even a hand file i guess.
So first up here's how your arm should look...
In order to fit the plates, you need to remove material from the flared lip where the shock usually bolts up to...
remove only the material top and bottom to allow the plates to push on. It is important to take it slow, to ensure that only the required amount is removed, no more...
Ensure that the top and bottom 'flat' that you create are parallel, and offer up the plate, grinding a small amount off the arm each time until a snug fit is achieved.
When fitting the plates ensure that the tube sits up against the casting on the arm.
The best fit requires a very light tap with a rubber mallet or similar to achieve a good play free fit with the tube hard up against the casting.
Under no circumstance hammer the plates on to get them to fit, or run the shock drops if there is any play in the mounting once bolted up. Use your original nut and washer to secure the shock drops to the original mounting. Torque to factory settings.
The final picture below shows the new shock fixing arrangement. Use washers inside the 'u-shape' to shim the shock to centre.
Once refitted to the car - great care must be taken to ensure clearance's are correct, there is no interaction with steering arms, bodywork, brake lines or the shock itself. It is crucial to ensure correct operation throughout the full range of travel of the suspension. The kit is designed to improve the operation of airshocks on show vehicles, and should only be fitted by qualified and/or competent fitters. In no way is this designed to be run on a vehicle with no other means of bumpstop, or failsafe in the event of failure of any part of the suspension.
Any problems fitting give us a call on 01872 561140 or email anthony@autostyl.co.uk
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